Joshua Zukas

A blast of thunder detonates over the Hanoi Old Quarter, declaring the imminent arrival of an autumn shower. Specks of water fall like pin pricks as I squeeze through Trung Yen Alley, a narrow ribbon of road linking Hang Be Market with Dinh Liet Street.

Third-wave coffee is taking over the sidewalks of Vietnam’s capital, with newcomers and veterans jostling to offer discerning taste buds quality, affordable fuel made from beans sourced locally and beyond

Inspired Hanoians are blending creativity with entrepreneurial zeal, turning the city into a unique destination for boutique shoppers. Even as multinational high street chain stores sweep through other Asian cities...

It’s early evening and camera-wielding sightseers cluster around St Joseph’s Cathedral, the faded but iconic neo-Gothic edifice in Hanoi’s ancient Old Quarter. Overshadowed by the lofty cathedral spires is a crack between the buildings, a barely visible alley leading to a sign- less rusty door. I slip down the alley, ring a buzzer, give my name and pass through the crimson portal.

Hanoi’s chequered history has created a beautiful mess of contrasting neighbourhoods. There's the labyrinthine Old Quarter; tree-studded French Quarter; lake-filled Tay Ho District; and the glistening modernity of the rapidly developing Westside precincts. Fortunately, accommodation options are spread throughout the city so you can pair your personality with the neighbourhood. From boutique charm squeezed into the Old City, to spacious modern creations from award-winning architects, there’s an

Hanoi’s architecture mirrors the city’s – and the country’s – checkered history. Chinese influence, French inspiration, subsidy phase austerity and modern practicalities have resulted in a compelling jumble of mismatched dwellings. One compelling way to absorb the capital’s architecture is through its lovingly converted cafes. Here are five you simply can’t miss.

Ở trung tâm thủ đô, cả về địa lý và tâm hồn là hồ Hoàn Kiếm, chia trái tim thành phố thành những làn đường và ngõ ngách lộn xộn dẫn tới khu phố cổ ở phía Bắc, và những con phố lớn xanh cây nối tới khu phố Pháp ở phía Nam.

With a rich coffee-drinking history, innovative native creations, and a localized approach to the so-called third wave, Hanoi’s café culture is like no other. Here’s a walk through ten establishments that prove that when it comes to coffee shops, Hanoi is king.

"Please step quietly, there are people living downstairs," warns a waitress as guests tiptoe over creaky weathered floorboards. It's eight o'clock in the evening and they are creeping into Quan Cam, a café that turns into a music venue on Friday evenings, so her request for soundless movement seems a little off key.

Hanoi is a sleepy capital, but its sprightly bar scene has the spirit to keep you up all night. Savour a fine wine by the lakes, duck into a cool speakeasy, or investigate the city’s craft beers — Hanoi’s bar scene has something for everyone. And if your stomach starts to rumble, enticing street food is never far away. Here are some of the best bars that the city has to offer.

Hanoi is a city of extremes. Everything from the weather to the people and the air quality swings wildly between two polar opposites......

Hanoi, the enigmatic 1000-year-old capital of Vietnam, is a city steeped in legend and layered with intrigue. At the city’s geographical and spiritual heart is the semi-mythical Lake of the Returned Sword, which divides central Hanoi into the chaotic tangle of lanes and alleyways that constitute the Old Quarter to the north, and the grand, tree-lined boulevards that form the French Quarter to the south.

From intimate music venues in colonial buildings to bars serving up pho-inspired cocktails near railroad tracks, Hanoi's lifestyle scene is quirky and exciting. Here we show you three of the Vietnamese capital's must-visit areas.

With its grand mansions, leafy streets and creative boutiques, Truc Bach – sandwiched between the famous Old Quarter and the expat enclave of West Lake – has charmed many local business owners to set up shop in the area.

Located in the same refurbished building as Hien Van, this café serves a unique blend of Vietnamese coffee with cinnamon. Don’t forget to try the egg coffee, a Hanoi speciality. On the opposite side of the tracks from Zo is this charming café and bar. Their menu includes ginger- infused cocktails and a selection of local craft beers. Around the corner from aN Store, this Hanoi institution features upcycled interiors and a Japanese-led menu, which includes Tadioto’s own line of craft beer: Nhan

With works from more than 150 contemporary Vietnamese artists, the city's affordable art fair is one of its most eagerly awaited events. At Art For You, an affordable art fair showcasing works priced between $20 and $900, you can bring home a piece of art by Vietnam’s established and emerging artists.

Vietnam's capital city may be overflowing with hidden treasures – but if it's secret bars that you seek, head straight for the Old Quarter. Featuring speakeasy favorites Kumquat Tree, Mad Botanist and Longer Than a Summer.

For trail runners, Hoang Lien National Park, 300km northwest of Hanoi, is the stuff of dreams. Waterfalls of rice terraces and ribbons of green-tea trees wrap around the lower slopes, while evergreen forests creep up to jagged peaks, which can reach to heights of up to 3,143m.

While otherworldly seascapes and limestone cliffs have long brought cruises to Halong Bay, adventure seekers are looking for something a little different.

Be it rain or shine, the Lung Cu Flag Tower is always a commanding presence. Located more than 400km north of Hanoi, right by the border with China, the 30m-high flag tower soars over Ha Giang, a province in the northernmost tip of Vietnam known for its dizzying ethnic diversity and ribbon-like roads that coil around jagged mountains.

"What a view,” quips my guide, Hieu, as I gingerly traverse along a 50m-long razor-sharp ridge jutting up from a gaping crater carved into the depths of the Earth. I assume he’s joking, because when I peer down, there’s nothing but pitch blackness in the cosmic abyss.

Phong Nha is an adventurer’s paradise. Millions of years of flooding have chiseled out the world’s largest caves, meandering rivers entwine ancient karsts, and jungle-clad mountains lend an otherworldly atmosphere.

"Don't step there," our guide says, pointing to a dubious area of brown sludge. "We might lose you." He's grinning but only half-joking: A previous wrong step pulled me deep into the gunk

What do drooping dragon claws and bulging broccoli sprigs have in common? You’ll find formations resembling both in the Tu Lan cave system, one of Vietnam’s most diverse subterranean kingdoms. Son Doong, crowned the biggest cave on the planet in 2009, continues to steal headlines. But that doesn’t mean it deserves all the attention. Phong Nha offers every caving experience imaginable. The Tu Lan cave system is woven together by a network of streams that carve up the countryside. This took place

With underground chambers wide enough to fit a soccer field, the caves of Vietnam are among the world's largest. And with an increasing number of them opening to the public – all a few million years old – the country is becoming a hot spot for adventure tourism.

As the world’s largest and third-largest caves respectively, Hang Son Doong and Hang En loom large on Asia’s adventure tourism circuit. But don’t let them overshadow central Vietnam’s other underground dominions. Here are six other caves worth discovering, all of which you can only visit with a licensed company that provides guides, food, water, safety equipment and headtorches. For multi-day expeditions you’ll stay in outdoor campsites in paradisal surroundings. Some are perched on riverbends

It’s early evening and the gentle waters of Hue’s tree-fringed Perfume River reflect a clear half-moon. Resting on the pristine riverbank is Ben Xuan Garden House Theatre, flaunting imperial architecture emblematic of the city’s history as Vietnam’s last royal capital.

Enchanting Hue is one of Vietnam’s most overlooked destinations. Imperial opulence, colonial relics, and picturesque landscapes set the scene for a sensory-rich getaway. Hue residents are proud but warm, eager to share their exceptional cuisine and the city’s monumental history with visitors.

From moss-covered towers hidden in the hills to faded stone warriors proudly protecting the dead, the Hue tombs evoke the feeling of a forgotten, almost mythological world. The kings of the Nguyen Dynasty designed their own tombs, reflecting their varying temperaments, philosophies, and priorities.

Hoi An to Hue is one of Southeast Asia’s most spectacular coastal journeys, and the best way to see it is by motorbike. The windy climb over world-famous Hai Van Pass is a definite highlight, but there’s much more to see. Follow this full-day itinerary — about 150km without detours — to discover striking temples, placid lagoons, and ancient ruins, and finish on the beach in Hue.

Danang is a city of bright lights and glinting bridges hemmed in by sweeping bays and jungle-topped mountains. It is regularly referred to as Vietnam’s most liveable city, and it’s easy to see why. The food scene is booming, the energy is youthful and a dip in the ocean is never more than a few minutes away.